Everything I Ate While I Was Home in Ireland

2 weeks ago 16



When I visited my family home in Meath in January, my Irish mother dropped a bomb on me: the coddle I grew up eating (and often fiercely defended to strangers online) wasn’t the traditional version at all. Apparently, the rich, brown broth I swore by—made with oxtail soup—was never part of the classic dish.

Indeed, I’ve since learned that a proper coddle should have a clear broth. Discovering this at 30 felt like the ultimate betrayal. I’d spent years arguing about the "right" way to make it, convinced my mother’s and grandmother’s version was the gold standard. Some will say there should be carrots. Others still wrongly call for barley.

But my single North Star recipe was always: Boiled potatoes, boiled onion, boiled rashers (chunks of thick bacon) and boiled skinless pork sausages, all brought together in an oxtail soup broth. It’s a hug in a bowl.

Coddle, the way my mammy makes it

Well, after I got over my initial shock (and scolded my mother as much as she would let me get away with), it actually reinforced within me that really, you make your own tradition. And while I “wasted” many a minute arguing with other Irish people on the internet only to—in hindsight—look like a fool, I’d rather it be swimming in a thick, brown soup, just like my nanny used to make.

So here are many of the other things I couldn’t wait to eat again once I touched down on the Emerald Isle. Clearly, I’m an unreliable narrator—who knows what other lies I’ve consumed over the years?!—but the following is what this Dublin girl can’t get enough of on a trip home.

A Lovely Irish Sausage

One Irish sausage and a piece of toast with a lot of butter

I could write a novel on the majesty of Irish sausages, which are different in that they typically don’t use breadcrumbs, like other sausages, but rusk, a twice-baked, much denser bread. And I think there’s just something about Irish pigs, but don’t quote me on that. My American husband has even conceded that they’re superior to anything he’s ever had in the U.S. My mother begged me not to post this photo because she said it looked like nothing, and she’s right—but I’m doing it anyway because to me, it’s a perfect breakfast. Or brinner.

Big Bowl of Veggie Soup and a Roasted Spud

Cream of vegetable soup, a roast potato, and a side of ciabatta bread

Okay, so a bowl of vegetable soup does not typically come with a spud on the side, but when the gastro pub we were in didn’t have everything for a traditional carvery meal—a Sunday roast—and I’d been craving a roastie, as my family calls a roasted potato, they were all too happy to oblige. Delish.

Snack of the Gods: Bacon Fries

Bacon Fries potato chips

It’s customary in Ireland to get a snack with your pint, the idea being that the salt keeps you thirsty, and thirst drives another pint to the table. Really, it’s a win-win. And no packet of crisps (potato chips, that is) comes close to Bacon Fries. Except maybe Tayto. But that’s a whole other article.

A Chipper

The chip shop counter

Or a chip shop, or a chippy, depending on who you speak to. But they do so much more than just dole out fish and chips. My tastes change depending on the evening, but on this particular night I had a battered sausage (yes, a deep fried, batter-coated sausage) and a bag of chips with salt and vinegar. It’s the greasiest, tastiest takeout you’ll ever have, and you just can’t beat it.

Battered sausage and chips

Cup of Tea and a Few Biscuits

Chocolate digestive biscuits and caramel squares

When you go to visit someone’s house, it’s customary to be offered a cup of tea, initially refuse, and then absolutely have one anyway. I went to visit two of my close friends and their new baby, and we chatted over a cuppa, chocolate digestive biscuits, and caramel shortbread.

Sunday Roast Variation

Sunday roast/Christmas dinner lite

Ham, turkey, roasted parsnips, roasted carrots (plus boiled carrots!), roasted potatoes (and mashed potatoes!), brussel sprouts boiled in the ham water, a load of gravy—the works! My mother doesn’t disappoint. You don’t understand the joy that even this image brings me. I want it now.

McDonald’s Chicken Nuggets

Irish McNuggets

I only got these to prove a point to myself—that Irish McNuggets taste better—and because I missed the curry sauce dip that you can’t get in the States. That’s all. I’m sorry.

Homemade Chicken Curry

Homemade chicken curry

Again, unreliable narrator here, so it’s hard for me to say whether it’s just that I have an insane obsession with curry, or if the country does. I’m gonna go with both. Usually, this would also have rice, and we call that half and half. You can even order it that way in restaurants.

A Big Fry

Cafe-style fry

Not my favorite fry I’ve ever had, I won’t lie to you. But the sausages and the pudding were fantastic, and the halloumi was a welcome addition. The beans were not it, and I’m still a little mad.

See? We don’t all eat corned beef and cabbage—though I won’t knock it too much. Deep fried is just more fun. Especially after a few pints…


Let me know: What's your favorite Irish food?
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