I realize, after 18 years a part of it, that the rules of the food internet in the week before the American cooking superbowl we call Thanksgiving, dictate that everything should relate back to turkey, stuffing, or pie. But friends, we have that abundantly covered in the archives, and the newsletter. So let me tell you what I’ve been making a lot lately to feed myself what I crave, and that is sheet pans of mixed vegetables roasted until almost charred, finished with a balsamic vinegar, and studded with heavenly, salty, crispy pillows of halloumi.
Halloumi is a semi-hard, brined, salty cheese from Cyprus with a squeaky, slightly rubbery texture (when cool) and a pillowy soft texture (when warm) with crisp edges if grilled, fried, or roasted. I adore it. But, to me, the wonder of halloumi is when it’s warm, so when I see it grilled and then put into a salad that will be chilled or even at room temperature, returning it to its squeaky and less magical state, I find it a little disappointing, but I keep it to myself. Well, most of the time. Whose idea was it to give me a place to mouth off, anyway?
This sheet pan method, in which the vegetables are crowded and warm, doused in a vinaigrette keeps the halloumi tender until it reaches your plate. I’ve got a summer version of this in Smitten Kitchen Every Day, Halloumi Roast with Eggplant, Zucchini and Tomatoes that you shouldn’t miss. And this is the long overdue fall/winter edition. I’ve been making it with sweet potatoes, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts, but other hearty vegetables work great here too, even cabbage or broccoli florets. Make it with whatever you’ve got that sounds good (or needs to go), but make it for you, and soon, before we get too busy feeding everyone else.
It’s here! The special audiobook edition of Smitten Kitchen Keepers, Smitten Kitchen Keepers: A Kitchen Counter Conversation! published last week. Read by me, I hope it feels exactly like you’ve pulled up a chair and we’re hanging out in the kitchen together. Bonus recipe: When you purchase the audiobook, you will receive a signed holiday card from me, perfect to give as a gift, with a bonus recipe. To receive your card, complete the form with your purchase order number right here.
Halloumi and Fall Vegetable Roast
No halloumi? A sprinkle of feta at the end won’t have quite the same pillowy-crisp cheese effect, but will provide that salty, tangy flavor.
- 4 tablespoons olive oil, plus for pans
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, chopped
- 2 teaspoons kosher salt
- Many grinds of black pepper
- 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
- 1 pound cauliflower, cut into 1-2-inch florets
- 1 pound sweet potatoes, in 1-inch chunks
- 1 pound brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved
- 1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup
- 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- One 8-ounce (225-gram) block halloumi, in 1-inch cubes
Heat your oven to 450°F. Coat one half-sheet or two quarter-sheet baking sheets lightly with olive oil.
In a large bowl, combine 4 tablespoons olive oil, garlic, thyme, salt, black and red pepper. Add vegetables and halloumi to marinade, stirring to evenly coat.
Spread mixture out on the roasting tray(s) in as even as a layer as possible, and roast for 20 to 30 minutes on the first side, until browned underneath, then flip and roast for 10 to 15 minutes more on the second, until the vegetables and halloumi are browned in spots and tender. While it roasts, whisk together balsamic and honey. As soon as the sheet pan leaves the oven, drizzle it over the vegetables. It should sizzle and the heat will soften some of the vinegar’s bite. Scoop onto plates and eat right away.