Kusatsu Lunch

3 weeks ago 33

Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma prefecture is said to be one of the three most famous hot springs in Japan. The others being Gero Onsen in Gifu and Arima Onsen in Hyogo near Kobe. In the center of the city is an area called yubatake, literally a field of hot water. At night the yubatake is lit up.

Staying at onsen ryokan inns we usually check in, change into yukata or other resort wear provided by the property. As my girlfriend @dokriley says, it’s like a slumber party. We then spend most of our time soaking in the hot springs, napping, reading, eating, and soaking. It’s all about relaxing and enjoying local dishes.

We planned our travel to enjoy some extra time in the city of Kusatsu as our ryokan on this stay was a distance from the city center. Here are some local spots we enjoyed in Kusatsu. Both are a short walk from the yubatake.

Matsumoto specializes in a unique style of udon noodles that is thin and wide called himokawa. Matsumoto uses 100% Kinu no Hana flour from Gunma. The silky noodles have a chewy texture and have a hint of sweetness from the flour. I had it with walnuts that diners grind theirselves and then add the tsuyu dipping sauce to the crushed nuts. Pork katsu is topped with a signature house sauce over rice, for those with a heartier appetite. Matsumoto Udon. Kusatsu 486-5.

At Iiyama Tei the menu had a large selection of kamameshi. Individual size rice pots cooked with a variety of toppings like chicken, salmon, mushrooms, chestnuts, beans, and much more. The rice is cooked to order so it takes about 15 minutes after ordering. We love making this style of rice at home, called takikomi gohan. The luxury of enjoying this at the restaurant is each person can order what they want. At home we all have to eat the same one as we are cooking it in a large donabe earthenware pot. Iiyama Tei. Kusatsu 386-2.

Kusatsu is nestled up in the mountains and the only way to get there from Tokyo is by train and bus. Going we took the Shinkansen to Karuizawa and then it was about a 90-minute bus ride. On the return we took about a 30 minute bus ride to Naganohara Kusatsuguchi Station. Then a train to Ueno Station near Tokyo Station.

Coffee jelly at Gute Reise kissaten cafe.

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