Mandegan

Yuko and her homemade tsukemono.

Mandegan is cool and casual sake/wine bar in Shibuya. It is by the brilliant Kotaro Hayashi san of the eponymous izakaya Kotaro, which just celebrated its 13th-anniversary. Mandegan opens at 4 p.m. and is a great spot to stop by for a few small bites and glasses of sake or wine.

The menu includes some signature izakaya Kotaro dishes such as the smoked egg potato salad or shūmai steamed dumplings. Mandegan is a local dialect from Kagawa prefecture where Kotaro san is from. It means everything or all of it. A cool name for a bar as it flows off your tongue easily.

On this night the very friendly and affable Yuko Miura san is behind the counter. I went in shortly after four p.m. and quickly the bar filled up with regulars. Yuko san greeted them with a “long time no see” or “welcome back”. 

I ordered some Akishika sake from Osaka and Yuko san, who is very knowledgeable about wine and sake, reminded me it’s a strong wine to start the night off with. She was right and I later asked for ice to put into the cup to dilute it. I often do this at home.

The nukazuke tsukemono pickles are made by Yuko san. The potato salad is the classic izakaya comfort food dish. Shishamo fish with roe is fried and pickled with celery and onions in a Nambanzuké preparation. Everything pairs well with nihonshu or wine.

Kotaro is a very popular izakaya and hard to get reservations at so this is a great addition to his business. Do call ahead and make a reservation at Mandegan before going as it’s a small bar and I was surprised at how quickly it became busy, even at four p.m.

Yuna and Kotaro

Mandegan

Shibuya-ku, Sakuragaoka 28-2, 2nd floor (above izakaya Kotaro)

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