eautiful layers of white cream adorn a fluffy cake with plump strawberries on top—this has long been the iconic image of Japanese Christmas confectionery. Still, its Christmas cake history goes much further back than many people realize.
Christmas cakes were first sold in Japan in 1910, and the ubiquitous ichigo shotokeki (strawberry shortcake) only hit shelves in 1922. It wasn’t until the postwar period, in 1952, that the strawberry shortcake Christmas cake became more accessible to the general public and cemented its place in Japan’s Christmas imagery (and stomachs across the nation).
To understand the history of this tasty tradition, we must delve into the past of Fujiya, a storied Japanese confectionery maker.
Introducing Christmas Cake To Japan
Introducing Christmas Cake To Japan
Image: iStock: fazon1
Fujiya, now with branches nationwide, is a patisserie that was initially based in Yokohama. In 1910, Fujii Rinemon opened his first shop in Motomachi, the upscale neighborhood adjacent to the Yamate and Kannai districts where the foreign population of Yokohama lived and worked. As the Meiji era dawned, the Motomachi area blossomed. The streets were soon dotted with cafes, clothing stores and bakeries. The Fujiya store was at the vanguard of this explosion of Western culture in Yokohama, where many overseas customs and wares spread to the rest of the country.
Indeed, in December of the same year, Fujiya offered the first Christmas cake sold in Japan. Arranged simply with silver ball decorations, the cake was a single-layer glazed with white fondant frosting, made by mixing sugar and water. But the difference with today’s decadent fresh cream concoctions was not merely aesthetic. The cake was not a Japanese sponge cake—known now as the shortcake—but rather a fruit cake, steamed in the oven and made of plums, dried fruit like raisins and alcohol.
1921 was a particularly bustling Christmas and a fateful one for Fujii. With business booming, thanks in part to a craze that year for decorated cakes, he opened a second store. To his surprise, his customer base was also shifting from foreign customers to Japanese ones. In 1922, Fujii developed a special cake to sell at his two shops, inspired by his studies abroad in the United States.
The Strawberry Shortcake
Image: iStock: muuuu
While stateside, he tried a dessert called a shortcake — two scones filled with cream and fresh fruit and named for the shortening used in the biscuit dough. Fujii felt fascinated by the flavor but believed the crunchy scones wouldn’t suit the Japanese palate.
Instead, he chose to make his shortcake out of a sponge cake. He drew inspiration from the ever-fashionable castella cake, another local interpretation of a Western (this time Portuguese) dessert which emerged in the late 1500s. His resulting creation, combined fresh cream and American-style strawberry shortcake with a softer, spongier cake, making it the first strawberry shortcake sold in Japan.
Many people believe the kouhaku (red and white) color combination — traditionally used for celebrations and shared with the hinomaru (rising sun) national flag — helped drive the popularity of strawberries and cream as the country’s signature Christmas cake style. Still, however, in the 1920s, these cakes were exceedingly extravagant. Without refrigerators in most homes, their potential for the astronomical fame that awaited would remain dormant until the postwar period.
Click here to read more.
© Savvy Tokyo
English (US) · 